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July 6th, 2004

Hamptons restaurant review: High End to Horse Racing

by Kathy McVann

This summer, our fearless dining duo takes us on a tour of the best culinary experiences the east end has to offer…


Lenny Angelo and Dee Perfido have been an item for the past twelve years. He is the meat and she is the potatoes, he the pasta ?ɬshe the sauce, she the sugar ?ɬhe the spice. Together they are DeeAngelo’s Supper Club at 141 Montauk Highway Westhampton Beach (631 288 0808). The chef Pablo Velez, formally of Rosemarie’s on Duane Street in NYC, is a Mexican born master of the kitchen arts who spends a few months each year in Italy to be close to his kitchen gods. Dee Angelo’s is a popular spot among those of us East enders who seek zuppa, insalata, carne or pesce instead of the usual soup, salad, meat or fish.

The night we dined at Dee Angelo’s we were served by Kathy Moise Raynor, one of a small cadre of the greatest Hamptons waitresses. We don’t know how we can have known someone as young as Kathy for so long. Must be magic, just like the service.?Ǭ Perfection with a smile. My Caraofi ala Guideu (fried artichokes with baby greens and shaved parmesan) was an appetizer to remember. My better half delicately ate her Insalata Stada Paladino (Caramelized Beets, Baby Greens, Goat Cheese, and Crispy Leeks) with relish and we moved on to the plate of Tagliarini served in a sauce of Cockles, Pancetta, Roasted Garlic, Broccoli Rabe, and olive oil, which we agreed to split before the main coarse.

My lovely companion was enjoying her selection of Pinot Grigio from the extensive list of reasonable reds and whites from Tuscan and other vineyards. Now that our bellies were approaching contentment, the d?cor came into focus: brightly colored platters, simple wooden furniture, and crisp table linen in front of a glowing fire. Osso Buco d’Agnello appeared in front of me and the excellent Kathy Moise Raynor set a shallow bowl of Pescadore (Shrimp, Scallops, Striped Bass, Cockles, served in a light Tomato and Herb broth with Garlic Crostini) down for my now dreamy partner. Good, better, best. Just cappuccino for us although there is a selection of deserts for those who could.?Ǭ The philosophy of using fresh ingredients “put together with love” in the true Tuscan tradition makes DeeAngelo’s Supper Club our pick for Italian fare east of Cipriani in NYC. Don’t miss this one.

The Inn Spot

Remember last summer when we had a great meal at the Inn Spot in Quogue? My permanent dining companion, hungry and in no mood for questions, insisted that we drive off to the new and just opened waterfront sister to The Inn Spot, The Inn Spot on the Bay. Located on Lighthouse Road in Hampton Bays just north of the Ponquogue Bridge, this new addition to the Hampton restaurant scene is the perfect spot to have dinner and see a truly inspiring sunset.

Sipping her pre-dinner white wine my ever-hungry companion noted that the west facing window next to our white clothed dining table was a perfect frame for the sure to appear “green flash” that immediately follows a Hemingway sunset. While waiting for the “flash” she ordered Shrimp and Crawfish Spring Rolls served with a Vietnamese dipping sauce and I chose the Croissant Crusted Fried Oysters for my appetizer although something from the Raw Bar would also have been nice. Skipping the salad to save room for desert after dinner we studied the dinner menu.

Wait till you see the choices!! The lady went for a Filet of wild salmon with julienne of yellow squash, courgette and carrot flowers steamed in Parchment and served with a fragrant Rice Pilaf. I risked the wrath of the late Dr.Atkins and ordered a Lobster Pot Pie consisting of succulent fresh lobster meat in a b?chamel with petite pois and baby carrots topped with a flaky pastry crust. On to Dessert, Classic Cr?ɂ?me Brule for me and Colette’s Coffee flavored Cake for the Mrs.

In case you don’t remember, Colette is Colette Connor who runs both the Inn Spot and The Inn Spot on the Bay with her partner in crime Pam Wolfert. The Inn Spot on the Bay is also a real Inn where you can actually get a room or suite and sleep or whatever there. They let you stay all night as long as you pay. So for a great meal or a place to live for the summer, try The Inn Spot on the Bay. You’ll be glad you did!

The Best of Cake

The annual running of the Kentucky Derby has given rise to a Westhampton Beach Tradition in the form of a Derby-Day party at the home of Joan and Marvin Levan. Ladies must wear hats and Mint Juleps are available. The horses run on the Sony big screen. Para mutual wagering is both permitted and encouraged by the host and hostess. So on the bright and sunny afternoon of the first Saturday of May in the year of Our Lord 2004 my favorite hat model and I arrived to watch the nag in which we had heavily invested at OTB thunder across the big screen. Just as the big race was about to begin I saw it. There on the side table in the dining room was what I first thought was a basket of berries. Looking closer I realized that it was not a basket of berries but rather the most unusual and beautiful cake I had ever seen. It was a knock out.

Turns out that the cake was the work of Sugar Sugar, a home business run by Alona Lowenthal and Susan Balogh. This sweet and tempting duo are true artists and will create your most fanciful fantasy on request. The photo album they maintain has hundreds of pictures of past creations. To see it is to understand that there is no limit to their artistry and kitchen magic. That’s not a bowling ball, it’s a cake. The brown leather briefcase – also a cake done for a law school graduation. How about a Medical Bag with stethoscope hanging out for the doctor in your life. Yes, you can eat that elaborate floral arrangement because it is a delicious white cake with strawberry filling. Go ahead and eat your hat and give me a piece. For birthdays, weddings, or any occasion keep their web site close at hand. For the few old-timers left you can reach Sugar by phone at (631 288 2947). If you can imagine it, they can create it. I am imagining a sleeping racehorse right now because mine dozed off at the clubhouse turn. Alona, can you make a sleeping horse cake?

Filed Under: Articles | Arts & Leisure | the Hamptons





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